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91
Auchentoshan 21 year old, 43%, $115
I feel this is by far the best whisky in the standard Auchentoshan portfolio, and it is one of the best Auchentoshans ever released. It’s delicious, nicely balanced, and with lovely depth for a Lowland whisky. Baked muffins, creamy vanilla, honey, and caramel blend nicely with delicate fruit notes (lemon, red current, strawberries). An impeccably balanced whisky. Similar to the 10 year old reviewed below, but with greater depth and a drier finish.
(4th Quarter 2004 Issue-Vol. 13#4)
90
Auchentoshan, 18 year old, 55.8%, $100
Aged in first and (mostly) second fill sherry casks. The sherry is kept in balance and does not mask Auchentoshan’s subtle beauty. The classic Auchentoshan creamy, grassy, freshness abounds, complemented by honey-soaked almonds, cereal grain, and an array of bright fruit (citrus, sultana, mandarin). Not as polished as the Auchentoshan 21 year old, but quite entertaining. (420 bottles for the U.S.)
(4th Quarter 2006 Issue-Vol. 15#4)
90
Auchentoshan (1966, 36 year old, 49.4%)
Amber color, with gold hues. Soft, subtly seductive aromas of creamy vanilla, crème brulee, tropical fruit, oak, and a hint of mint. Light to medium in body-silky in texture at first, then becoming and firm. On the palate, the whisky starts out gently sweet, with creamy vanilla and honeyed malt. Subtle tropical fruit notes arrive mid palate. The whisky then begins to dry out fairly rapidly (this is a 36 year old Lowland after all), as dry resinous notes of vanilla, mint, and herbs reveal themselves. The whisky finishes dry, with notes of soft leather.
Style: Lowland single malt Scotch whisky. Price: $120. Available exclusively at Sam’s Wines & Spirits (800/777-9137).
The way the owners of Auchentoshan and Glen Garioch are handling vintage bottlings now is that specialty retailer orders an entire cask and sells it exclusively. This one is a Sam’s exclusive. It’s older than the previous, widely distributed 1966 bottling and less expensive too! You wouldn’t expect a triple distilled Lowland whisky to age so gracefully. Auchentoshan is an exception to the rule. It has acquired the depth and maturity from extensive aging, yet it still manages to maintain its distillery character and Lowland gentility. Only on the dry finish does it really show its age. But that’s a small price to pay for an otherwise very good single cask whisky at a very reasonable price for 36 years old.
(2nd Quarter 2003 Issue-Vol. 12#2)
86
Auchentoshan, 40 years old, 41.6%, $1,500
It always amazes me how well this triple-distilled Lowland whisky ages. The best ones are in their twenties and thirties. This one, at 40, is still holding up quite well, all things considered. Lively, fragrant aroma for such an old whisky. Notes of vanilla, coconut cream pie, butterscotch, hay, wood shavings, sultana, dried citrus, and a potpourri of spice. Some “old oak” notes emerging from time to time throughout, with a gently spicy finish. An expensive whisky, but those who pony up the money will enjoy it.
(1st Quarter 2008 Issue-Vol. 17#1)
85
Auchentoshan (1966 Vintage, 37 year old, 48.1%)
Style: Lowland single malt scotch
Color: Antique Gold
Aroma: Dry but creamy, with notes of vanilla, marshmallow, honey, and tropical fruit (pineapple, coconut).
Palate: Malty and creamy up front, with vanilla, marshmallow, and a hint of honey; briefly becoming fruity (again, the tropical fruits) before turning dry and oaky, with a big, long, dry finish (especially for a triple-distilled Lowlander).
General Comments: As I have written in the past, Lowland whiskies are known for maturing nicely at a younger age. But most people don’t know that some (especially Auchentoshan) are delicious at older ages too. As mentioned in my ‘From the Stills’ column (see page xx), older vintages of Auchentoshan are now only being offered to individual retailers, one cask at a time, and this is one of those casks. It is one of many 1966 vintage Auchentoshan whiskies I have enjoyed over the past 15 years. Auchentoshan, from a balance and complexity perspective, seems to be best in the 20-30 year old range. Still, having said this, this one holds up fairly well for its age.
Price: approx. $150. Available exclusively at Park Avenue Liquors, New York, NY (212/685-2442).
(4th Quarter 2003 Issue-Vol. 12#4)
83
Auchentoshan, 16 year old, 53.7%, $120
A very textural whisky. Incredibly creamy, with mouth-coating vanilla, honeyed barley, hay, linseed oil, clementine, and subtle peach. The whisky continues to cling to the palate long after the finish. It’s what you would expect Auchentoshan to taste like, but bolder. A nice whisky, but lacking the polish of the standard 21 year old expression.
(1st Quarter 2008 Issue-Vol. 17#1)
82
Signatory (distilled at Auchentoshan), 12 year old, 1992 vintage, cask #7358, 46%, $55
Lemon-lime gum drops and fresh-cut grass notes, with an underlying creamy, marshmallow-tinged maltiness. Plenty of vanilla, along with a hint of ginger spice zing. Clean, nicely rounded, and fully mature for its age.
(1st Quarter 2007 Issue-Vol. 16#1)
82
Auchentoshan 32 year old, 1973 vintage, 55.5%, $700
Whisky from two different sherry casks. The sherry, extra aging, and higher strength produce an intensely rich Auchentoshan. Fudgy caramel, toffee and cocoa notes are offset by golden raisin, apricot, and Clementine. Underlying notes of roasted nuts, old leather, and spice (vanilla, mint) peek through occasionally. An enjoyable whisky, but much of the Auchentoshan is lost somewhere in all that oak and sherry.
(1st Quarter 2006 Issue-Vol. 15#1)
81
Auchentoshan 10 year old, 43%, $33
Light, clean, and delicate on the palate, with creamy vanilla, marshmallow, soft fruit (lemon, lime), and a touch of honey throughout. Nicely balanced and uncomplicated. A whisky to appeal to both the malt and blend drinker.
(4th Quarter 2004 Issue-Vol. 13#4)
81
Scott’s Selection (distilled at Auchentoshan), 21 year old, 1983 vintage, 52.4%, $145
Surprisingly thick and oily in texture for a Lowlander. There’s plenty of marshmallow, vanilla cream, and ripe barley, with interspersed cut grass, lemon, and mustard seed. Drying oak spice notes on the finish. Not as polished or refined as the distillery bottling of the same age, but it still has many redeeming qualities.
(4th Quarter 2005 Issue-Vol. 14#4)
80
Auchentoshan Three Wood, 43%, $45
An extremely atypical Auchentoshan. This whisky was aged in bourbon, oloroso sherry, and Pedro Ximinez sherry casks. The PX cask, in particular, transforms what is normally a soft, delicate whisky into a big, rich, and chewy whisky. Toffee, raisins, fudge, plum, and plenty of nutty notes are interwoven throughout. An interesting adventure, but it’s hard to find the Auchentoshan in there.
(4th Quarter 2004 Issue-Vol. 13#4)
79
79 Auchentoshan 17 year old, Bordeaux Wine Finish, 51%, $120
A peculiar Auchentoshan. The Bordeaux wine dominates, with its distinctive winery aroma and flavor. Red raspberry, red currant, and a hint of strawberry comprise the core of this whisky, with underlying notes of vanilla cream, cocoa, and a hint of demerara rum. The whisky spent nine of its years in Bordeaux wine casks. I would have preferred less time in the wine casks for such a delicate whisky.
(1st Quarter 2006 Issue-Vol. 15#1)
77
Auchentoshan 1962, 41 year old, 40.3%, $2,000
This whisky comes from two bourbon casks, producing only 112 bottles. I believe it’s the most expensive Lowland whisky on the market. Unfortunately, its flavor doesn’t stand up to its price. While I applaud Morrison Bowmore's efforts to give us the opportunity to try such a mature expression of Auchentoshan, I feel that the whisky is past its prime. I wouldn't describe it as overly woody, like I have other whiskies that are 41 years old. Rather, I would describe it as overly funky. The whisky's aroma and flavor are very peculiar, with plenty of vegetal notes (cucumbers especially) combined with stewed fruit, golden raisins, rose petals, and spice (anise, clove). If it were $100 a bottle, I would suggest that you gather a few friends to chip in and buy a bottle, just for the experience. But at $2,000, I think we should leave this one for the collectors.
(4th Quarter 2004 Issue-Vol. 13#4)
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