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92
Laphroaig Original Cask (10 year old, 57.3%)
Amber with gold streaks. Its aroma and flavor is fresh, powerful, and medicinal, with notes of peat smoke, band-aids, tar, rich toffee, seaweed, and brine. Thick in body, with an almost molasses-like viscosity.
Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $60. Available nationwide beginning October 2002 (imported by Allied Domecq Spirits and Wines, 203/221-5400).
I really like this whisky for its raw power and intensity. If you like your Islay whiskies young, dominating, and "in your face," this one's for you. Originally a duty-free only item, for years I've waited for this whisky to be imported to the U.S. Our day has finally come.
(3rd Quarter 2002 Issue-Vol. 11#3)
91
Laphroaig (30 year old, 43%)
Deep amber color. Wonderfully complex, and nicely balanced aroma and flavor of vanilla sweetness, tarry rope, oak, toffee, seaweed, and brine. Medium to full in body, and creamy in texture, with a finish that doesn't quit.
Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $225. Very limited availability (imported by Allied Domecq Spirits and Wines, 203/221-5400).
An excellent example of a mature Islay whisky-the distillery character is fully evident, but the 30 years has added depth of flavor and complexity. The flavors are nicely balanced and very clean, and nothing dominates or overpowers. Nicely done.
(3rd Quarter 2002 Issue-Vol. 11#3)
91
Laphroaig Quarter Cask, 48%, $50
The whisky begins sweet and creamy, with notes of vanilla, honey, and ripe malt (reminiscent of a malting floor). Then the Laphroaig signature peat smoke, seaweed, tar, and medicinal notes emerge. Bottling at 48% and without chill-filtering keeps the whisky from being dulled down. A whisky that is very dynamic. Nicely done.
(2nd Quarter 2006 Issue-Vol. 15#2)
89
Murray McDavid "Leapfrog" (distilled at Laphroaig, 1987, 12 year old, 46%)
White wine color. Seaweed, briny aromas and flavors. The classic Laphroaig medicinal, pungent, smoky rush kicks in on the finish and stays in overdrive for a very long time.
Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: low $60s. Available nationwide (imported by Barrique Wines, 773/275-1200).
Litigation prohibits Murray McDavid from using the Laphroaig name. Compared to the standard 10 year old bottling of Laphroaig, this one has more kick to it with regards to intensity and pungency.
(3rd Quarter 2000 Issue-Vol. 9#3)
88
Laphroaig Original Cask Strength, 10 year old, 57.3%, $60
Pungent and medicinal in personality, with gobs of peat, tar, iodine, brine, and seaweed. These are all good things.in case you were wondering. A gentle vanilla sweetness tries to tame this savage beast, but it is no match. One of the most challenging-yet rewarding-whiskies in the entire world. What Cantillion Lambic is to beer, Laphroaig Original Cask Strength is to whisky.
(4th Quarter 2004 Issue-Vol. 13#4)
88
Blackadder (distilled at Laphroaig, 12 year old, 1988, 45%)
Pale gold color. Bold aromas of sweet wort, seaweed, and peat bonfires. Medium bodied and slightly oily in texture. Malty sweet flavors up front, followed by peat and seaweed, then taken over by a huge rush of peat smoke that never seems to end. A sweetness stays with the whisky throughout to help balance the peat smoke.
Style: Islay single malt scotch. Price: approximately $60. Very limited availability-only 120 bottles (imported by Heartland Wine & Spirits Group, 877/472-6327).
This is a huge, powerful whisky-even for Laphroaig. If you love a whisky with a "take no prisoners" attitude, this one's for you.
(1st Quarter 2002 Issue-Vol. 11#1)
87
Laphroaig (40 year old, 42.4%)
Amber copper color. Very mature aroma of oak, damp earth, peat smoke,
licorice, soft citrus, and seaweed. Full-bodied and somewhat oily. A gently sweet vanilla note up front-albeit very briefly-then a quick flash of citrus fruit and seaweed. After that it's a battle between peat smoke and oak, with the oak ultimately winning. Very long, dry, smoky finish.
Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $500. Extremely limited availability (imported by Allied Domecq Spirits and Wines, 203/221-5400).
There is no hiding the fact that this whisky is 40 years old-the oak aging mutes the distillery character. Still, I think that the whisky holds up rather well considering its age. I've had whiskies half its age with this much wood influence. If you like older whiskies, you will enjoy this one. But if you like your Laphroaig bold and gutsy, opt for the cask-strength version reviewed above.
(3rd Quarter 2002 Issue-Vol. 11#3)
85
Signatory (distilled at Laphroaig), 13 year old, 1993 vintage, 53.2%, $60
A nicely balanced Laphroaig, with a soothing malty sweetness layered in between the smoke, peat, tarry rope, and iodine. Underlying notes of vanilla bean, caramel custard, grist, anise, coconut, blueberry, and a dusting of cocoa add subtle complexity.
(4th Quarter 2007 Issue-Vol. 16#4)
83 Signatory (distilled at Laphroaig), 7 year old, 1999 vintage, 58.0%, $45
Tastes more mature than its age would suggest. It’s packed with ripe, sweet barley (especially at the palate entry). There are some high citrus fruit notes and anise that emerge before the signature Laphroaig peat smoke and tar wallops you. Very vibrant and youthful, but without being too green. A steal for $45. (A Binny’s Beverage Depot exclusive.)
(3rd Quarter 2007 Issue-Vol. 16#3)
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