Classics: Scotch

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Bunnahabhain | Wining about whisky | Century of Change?

Accommodating Distilleries
by Caroline Dewar

Scotch whisky enthusiasts love visiting the homes of their favorite drams, but there are now a number of distilleries also offering you places to stay. There used to be only a couple: that has grown to six. Which area leads the way? Yes—Islay, the malt pilgrim’s island. Three of the distilleries here have accommodations available to whisky enthusiasts and general public alike. Jura has a recent addition, and the remaining two are on the mainland.

Cottage Industry
Let’s start in the west of Islay with Bunnahabhain. The distillery rents out four cottages, with fabulous water views. Ideal for family trips, these are let by the week in peak season and for a minimum of three nights November through March (excluding Christmas and New Year’s). You can take more than one cottage if you have more than one family together or a very large group. Three cottages have one double and one twin bedroom plus a sofa bed in the living room; one cottage has three bedrooms for added flexibility. Each kitchen is very well equipped. The cottages are freshly and prettily decorated in neutral and pastel tones. The landscaping includes a grassy area with wooden picnic tables for good weather. For those who must, there are TVs and a music system—and heating for colder days when you can stay cozy inside, behind your double-glazed windows. Rates here are particularly reasonable for good accommodation.

Moving down the road we come to Bruichladdich. The Academy House here is the accommodation for students at their excellent Academy for some dates in the year, but if the Academy is not full, they will let out rooms to other guests (no minimum number of nights required). I have stayed in it myself while on business and found it to be very comfortable, with good food and a chance to meet some great people. If you’re interested in staying here as part of the Academy, pricing for the 5-day 2007 Academy courses will be around $1500 per person; for more information, go to www.bruichladdich.com. Island trips form part of the experience, so you don’t just have to work hard.

The rates are really good for the quality of surroundings and food. Academy groups will enjoy excellent dinners here, but for non-Academy rentals, it’s the bed-and-breakfast plan. The Academy House holds up to fourteen people in two twin, three double, and two single rooms. Like Bunnahabhain, it enjoys a great location. Just walk round the corner and see the loch across to Bowmore stretch in front of you.

That leads us on to Bowmore Distillery in Bowmore town—though by road rather than walking on water. They are becoming quite the property magnates here with a number of cottages for rent. In order of size from smallest, they have Mashman’s (2 people), Garden (6), Maltman’s (6), Distillery House (8), and Old Bakery (12). The latter is the most newly refurbished with gorgeous views from the first floor lounge and sharing access with Garden Cottage to a delightful garden. It has a tranquil, Japanese look reflecting the nationality of Bowmore’s parent company. I visited in Summer, 2006 and was thrilled to see the effort put into this latest house; definitely 5 star standard. All cottage bedrooms have bathrooms, as most of us don’t like to share facilities.

A one-week rental is preferred at the Bowmore cottages, but a minimum of two nights is accepted. Prices are still very reasonable for the lovely old buildings and quality interiors you will enjoy, not to mention the convenience of a very short walk to several drinking, eating and shopping places. Bowmore’s cottages can be booked online through www.bowmore.com/cottages.

The Lap of Luxury
Now we move on to what might be called the “big beasts.” Not that they necessarily take more people than some cottages, but they are run as luxury houses.

For the first one, hop on the little ferry from Islay to Jura. Opened to the public in late 2006, Jura Lodge is beside the Isle of Jura distillery. The interiors by Paris-based designer Bambi Sloan are quirky and bohemian; I found it a lot of fun. There is much to stimulate the imagination inside, as well as the stunning views over Small Isles Bay. When I visited in summer, a rainbow ended on the outcrop of rock in the bay known as Bride’s Island—too far to swim to seek the crock of gold.

You enter the Lodge at ground level, but accommodations are on two large upper floors with four double bedrooms on the lower one, plus a twin bedroom and all the living areas upstairs. Each room is very different but endlessly stylish and glamorous, some with bejewelled lighting or old leather travel trunks; embroidered silk coverlets, or old French bedsteads. A haven of discovery which truly does refresh the spirit the way its owners intend. The emphasis is on peace, conviviality, and no disturbance…though Archie, the white suit of armor in the huge kitchen/sitting room, has been known to disturb a few! You can sink into the squashy sofas to read, chat, or listen to music, count the large number of antlers on the walls, stare out to sea, cook on the beach, or go for long walks and return to a refreshing dram.

For those with the time and money and a need for de-stressing, this is a perfect location. It is designed for relaxed self-catering, though meals can be brought in by a local chef, if required. Note that food supplies need to be purchased on Islay. Indeed, Islay seems a metropolis after a day or two on Jura!

You can arrange a stay at Jura Lodge is in three ways. Firstly through membership of the Jura Social Club, which is designed to keep in touch with all registered Jura aficionados. It is rented to only one member group at a time, whether they are using all bedrooms or not. The second route is The Jura Fellowship—a residential course for guests where you participate in distillery work and explore the island (meals are prepared for you). Costs for that are $1,900 per person or $1,350 for partners staying but not participating. Distillery manager Michael Heads advises that there are plans for Fellowship sessions in spring. Find out more on www.isleofjura.com.

The third and final way to stay at the Lodge is a bit more exclusive, via a writing residency administered by the Scottish Book Trust. Just as George Orwell came to Jura to write some of his famous works, it should be an inspiration to other writers. One of the fellowships will be for a “big name” U.S. writer from any poetry or fiction genre; more detail can be found from www.scottishbooktrust.com.

Off the Water
Time to move back to the mainland. Both distilleries with accommodation here are in the northeast. First is The Glen House at The Glendronach, near Huntly in Aberdeenshire, a favorite place of mine, which I have stayed in on several business occasions. The Glendronach is only 45 minutes from Aberdeen airport, and golf or other sporting or country activities nearby can be arranged.

Access here is quite restricted, as some of the owning company’s historical artifacts are kept here. Dating from 1771, Glen House was largely used for corporate guests and B&B weekends for shareholders. Applicants are very carefully screened, and the rentals are quite dear; not a last-minute lark of a stay.

Each of the five rooms has its own bathroom and large kitchen, though all food is prepared for you. It is run as a country house party, so there are menus to choose from, but everyone has to eat the same thing at dinner. Outside Glen House are pretty flower gardens to the front and, at the rear, an old walled garden which has flowers and vegetables in season. Two garden gates lead into the distillery yard, but visitors may not enter the distillery unless part of an organized tour. Just standing there to enjoy the surroundings is pleasure enough on a warm, still Aberdeenshire day.

Finally, we move north of Inverness to The Glenmorangie Highland Home near Tain, the last distillery accommodation before you fall off the end of Scotland. This has been open as luxury accommodation to Glenmorangie fans for some years and, as at Glendronach, you can enjoy tutored tastings here. They will also arrange ceilidhs and musical entertainment. Weddings can be catered here, if you want to take over the whole house and cottages. It’s only 45 minutes from Inverness airport.

The beautiful white house is not actually on the distillery site, but enjoys a lovely location at Fearn, overlooking the waters of the Dornoch Firth. There are nine bedrooms here, each with its own bathroom—six in the main house and three in cottages, also with sitting rooms, on the grounds. The house has public rooms where you are simply an honored house guest, free to luxuriate in all the comfort and amenities the house and garden hold while you sample the complimentary drams. Food is locally sourced and of excellent quality, prepared by a talented kitchen team. Rates here are also not cheap, but the experience is well worth the outlay, and you are assured of value for your money.

Some may be surprised that more distilleries do not offer accommodations, and some may be surprised that any do. But here is a selection of highly individual and beautiful places to stay. Comfort, clean air, and good whisky. What more could a body ask for?

Other Scotch Classics:
Bunnahabhain | Wining about whisky | Century of Change?